I've ridden the Danube path five times now, and it never gets old. The first time was back in 2017 when I barely knew what I was doing - undersized tires, way too much luggage, and zero idea about pacing myself. By day two, I was convinced I'd made a terrible mistake. By day four, I was already planning my next trip.
The route itself is almost comically well-suited for cycling. Following the river from Passau (just across the German border) to Vienna, you're essentially riding downstream the entire way. The gradient is so gentle that headwinds become your biggest challenge - which says a lot about how relaxed this ride actually is.
The Route in Sections
I prefer breaking the Austrian section into four main chunks, though your mileage (literally) may vary depending on your fitness and how many wine tastings you plan to squeeze in.
Passau to Schlogen (Day 1: ~50km)
Starting from Passau's old town - where the Inn, Ilz, and Danube meet in a dramatic confluence of three different colored waters - the path hugs the northern bank through dense forest. The famous Schlogen loop is the highlight here: a 180-degree bend in the river that creates one of the most photographed spots on the entire route. I always stop at the viewpoint above the bend, even though it means a short but steep climb off the main path. Worth every drop of sweat for that view.
Linz to Grein (Day 2: ~55km)
Linz deserves more than a quick pass-through. The Ars Electronica Center alone is worth half a day if you're into digital art and technology. But when you finally leave the city, the ride to Grein is where the landscape starts to shift. Steeper hillsides, more dramatic cliffs, and the river narrows in places, funneling you through increasingly scenic corridors.
Grein has this tiny theater - the Stadttheater - that's been operating since 1791. I caught a performance there once, completely by accident. Found out about it at dinner, bought the last ticket, and spent the evening watching local actors perform in a space that felt frozen in time. That's the kind of thing that happens when you're not in a hurry.
Local Tip
Book accommodation in Grein at least a week ahead during summer. The town has maybe 200 beds total and fills up fast. I learned this the hard way in 2019 and ended up sleeping in Saxen, 8km back the way I came.
The Wachau Valley: Melk to Krems (Day 3-4: ~35km)
Here's where the Danube path earns its international reputation. The Wachau is a UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason - terraced vineyards climbing impossible slopes, apricot orchards in full bloom (if you time it right in April), and medieval towns that look exactly like you'd imagine Austrian medieval towns to look.
Melk Abbey dominates the start of this section - a massive Baroque monastery perched on a cliff overlooking the river. Tour buses crowd the entrance, but the abbey itself is genuinely impressive. The library alone contains 100,000 volumes, and the views from the terrace put everything in perspective.
Between Melk and Krems, you'll pass through Spitz, Weissenkirchen, and Durnstein - each one worth a stop. Durnstein is where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in 1192, though the castle is mostly ruins now. The climb up is steep but manageable, and offers the best views of the valley.
Krems to Vienna (Day 5-6: ~80km)
The final stretch loses some of the Wachau's dramatic scenery, but gains something else - the anticipation of arrival. The path stays mostly along the river, passing through Tulln (birthplace of Egon Schiele, with a small but excellent museum) before the Vienna suburbs gradually appear.
Arriving in Vienna by bike has a particular satisfaction. You roll past the Millennium Tower, through the Donauinsel recreational area, and suddenly you're in a major European capital, still on two wheels. I usually end up at Schwedenplatz, grab a Melange at some random cafe, and just sit there grinning like an idiot for about twenty minutes.
Practical Stuff That Actually Matters
When to Go
May and September are optimal. July and August bring crowds - serious crowds, especially in the Wachau. I once waited 40 minutes for a ferry crossing in August because the line was so backed up with cyclists. June can work if you're okay with slightly unpredictable weather.
Which Direction?
Downstream (west to east) is standard for a reason. Yes, you can ride Vienna to Passau, but you'll be fighting a gentle gradient and prevailing winds the entire way. I tried it once out of stubbornness. Don't recommend.
Bike Considerations
Any reasonably maintained bike will handle this route. The path surface is excellent - mostly asphalt with some well-packed gravel sections. Hybrid or touring bikes are ideal. I've seen people complete it on road bikes (acceptable) and full-suspension mountain bikes (overkill, but you do you).
Gear I Actually Used
28mm tires minimum, front and rear lights (some tunnels), a good bike lock (you'll want to leave your bike unattended regularly), and panniers or a trailer rather than a backpack. Trust me on the backpack thing - your back will thank you.
Accommodation Strategy
Gasthofs (traditional guesthouses) are my preference - usually family-run, often with breakfast included, and nearly always willing to store bikes securely. Prices range from 50-90 EUR per night for a decent room. Booking 2-3 days ahead is usually sufficient outside peak season.
For budget options, there's a string of hostels and budget pensions along the route. Camping is possible but limited - designated campsites are spaced out enough that you'll need to plan ahead if that's your approach.
My Favorite Spots
After five trips, certain places stick with me:
- The ferry at Weissenkirchen - a tiny cable ferry that holds maybe ten bikes and offers a few minutes of forced stillness on the water
- Heuriger in Spitz - local wine taverns serving this year's vintage with simple food. The one at Lagler winery has a terrace overlooking the vineyards
- Sunrise at Melk - if you stay overnight, get up early and walk to the abbey grounds before the crowds
- The bike path through Vienna's Donauinsel - 21km of car-free riding through the capital
Final Thoughts
The Danube path isn't challenging in the traditional sense. There are no mountain passes, no technical sections, no real wilderness. What it offers instead is accessibility - this is a route where you can cover 60-80km in a day and still have energy for exploring, eating well, and actually enjoying where you are.
It's also an excellent introduction to bike touring if you've never done it. The infrastructure is mature, support is readily available, and the consequences of getting something wrong are minimal. Run out of water? There's a town in 10km. Bike breaks down? Someone nearby can help.
I'll keep coming back. Each time, I find something I missed before - a side road to a viewpoint, a restaurant someone mentioned, a town I'd always rushed through. The Danube is patient that way. It's been there for millions of years. It's not going anywhere.
Useful Resources
- Official Danube Cycle Path Website - maps, accommodation listings, ferry schedules
- Austria Tourism Cycling Section - broader context for cycling in Austria
- Komoot Route Guide - GPS tracks and community tips